Milan: Aperol

I remember when I had my first cocktail. It was either All That Jazz in Itaewon or Once in a Blue Moon in Apgujeong, Seoul. I’m a bit fuzzy on the locations. I had a Kahlua milk. It was recommended by the gentleman I was with, while he had a Long Island Iced Tea. It’s funny because I later realized Kahlua Milk was a popular cocktail for a lot of Korean girls who were just starting their (soon to be addicted) cocktail drive, and LIIT for guys. It was like KM and LIIT were the staple cocktail drinks for Koreans in their early and mid twenties. (I just discovered this drink is more commonly known as a sombrero. So for those who don’t know what Kahlua Milk is, there you go. Any type of coffee brandy plus milk or cream. A White Russian you have to add vodka.)

After Kahlua milk came some more favorites: Mojitos, Long Island Iced Teas and Espresso Martinis. And then there were the Italian cocktails, recommended by the Italian himself: Aperol Spritz and Campari Orange. And the ultimate test was thrown upon us when we were in Milan: Terazza Aperol.

나의 첫 칵테일은 깔루아밀크였다. 아마도 같이 갔던 남자분의 칵테일은 롱아일랜드아이스티로 기억. 생각해보면 가장 쉬우면서도 맛있고 부담스럽지 않은 칵테일이 이 두개인듯 하다. 그래서 많은 학생들의 첫 칵테일로 선정되는건가. 그 이후로는 모히토, 에스프레소 마티니 등이 있었고 이제는 가끔 이탈리아 전통 칵테일도 마신다. 가장 흔한 아이들이 아페롤 스프릿츠와 캄바리 오렌지. 밀라노에 가니 아페롤만을 위한 카페가 있었는데 아페롤을 좋아하는 G는 뒤도 안돌아보고 바로 들어가버림. 칵테일을 마시면서 두오모를 구경하고 싶다면 추천합니다.

m11A little bit of history. Aperol is an Italian aperitif under the Campari brand and was created back in 1919. It wasn’t very successful, however, until World War II. It actually looks like Campari, bright orange in color and a similar citrus scent, but it only has 11 percent in alcohol content, while Campari ranges from 20.5 percent to 28 percent, depending on the country it’s sold.

The Aperol sold in Germany is 15 percent. Germany has something called the container deposit legislation regulation, also known as the Pfand. It means certain types of beverages will be charged more under the name “container deposit,” and when you take it back to the shop or seller, they will give you that much money back. Quite a hassle, if you ask me, but there are more than one reason why so many countries, including Nordic countries, implement this regulation. As for spirits, if it’s more than 15 percent, no regulation.) So Aperol in Germany, 15 percent it is.

m5아페롤은 캄파리 브랜드의 리쿠어 종류. 아페롤은 일반적으로 알코올도수가 11도 정도 되는데 캄파리는 거의 두배, 20-28도 정도 된다고. 사실 독일의 아페롤은 15도. 독일에서는 “판트”라고 불리는 재활용병 환불제도가 있는데 거의 모든 병은 재활용이 되어서 다시 가게에 갔다주면 25센트정도를 되돌려준다. 술의 경우엔 15도를 넘어가면 판트가 되지 않아 독일과 몇몇 나라에서는 캄페롤이나 다른 주류도 일부러 15도를 맞춘다고. (그래서 독일이나 이 판트제도를 시행하는 도시 곳곳에 빈병을 줍는 사람들을 자주 볼 수 있다.)

qqqqThe most famous cocktail made with Aperol is the Spritz (Aperol + Prosecco Cinzano + soda) and it’s an Italian classic. Terrazza Aperol is located right next to the Duomo and so it offers an amazing view of the cathedral and tourists. The menu is quite extensive, including both Aperol and Campari cocktails and also brunch, lunch, dinner menus plus non-alcohol drinks. I took the Aperol & Fruit (because it sounded pretty safe) while G went for the Aperol Eros, which included tabasco sauce (I asked three times if he was sure he knew what tabasco sauce was). Amazing drinks indeed, despite the sauce.

m6

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We didn’t have much time in Milan: a little bit of shopping, the Duomo Museum, one dinner by ourselves and another with friends. It was right after the New year, so the sales were slowly starting to unfold.

The Duomo museum was AMAZING. They didn’t allow photos, which was fine, but it really made me think again how CRAZY Italians were when they were working on the Duomo. There are more than 3,500 sculptures that adorn the structure today, but these were just a handful of what professional sculptures made for the Duomo. ONLY a handful. If you ever wondered about the whereabouts of such samples, or even wondered how they managed to make so small, intricately detailed sculptures like me, go to the Museo del Duomo. I was in complete awe from start to finish. One aspect of the museum that I appreciated was that it allowed people to see the entire collection from top to bottom. You can see the front, back and sides of most of the sculptures, treasures and models, some hanging from the wall, others right in front of you.This allows you to enjoy everything in detail. The museum opened in November, 2013.

밀라노에서의 시간은 그리 길지 않았다. 작년에 두오모 꼭대기에는 올라가서 안갔고 주로 쇼핑, 먹기 그리고 대망의 두오모 박물관. 사진찍는것이 허용되지 않아 안타까웠지만 최근 가본 박물관 중에서는 단연 최고. 밀라노 두오모를 장식하는 크고 작은 석조 장식이 한 3,500여개는 된다는데 미리 만들어놓은 애들은 거의 두세배였다고. 두오모에 올라간 애들은 특별히 선택되어서 올라갔지만 나머지 애들은 남겨져서 외로이 시간을 보내다가 결국 박물관을 통해 빛을 보게됨. 백여개의 작은 예수 조각상들, 성모마리아 상들. 대단한건 표정, 손의 위치, 옷주름 등 다 다르고 완벽하다는거. 처음부터 끝까지 기가 찬 상태에서 헉헉! 거리면서 보고 나왔다.

m2Then there was the dinner that I believe we will remember for a very long time. Not just because it was good, but because of the monstrous amount of food. Milano Centro is a bit off from the main streets, but the food, service and atmosphere was excellent. If you are looking for a good Italian restaurant not so far from the Duomo, but better than the tacky cafes, bars and Burger Kings, Milano Centro is a good option.

m3Another restaurant we went to was Antica Trattoria della Pesa, which we went with some good friends of G. It’s 134 years old (WHAT) and it’s lovely. It’s like stepping inside that era, with the elegant and quite dark interior, rustic furniture and decorations and very traditional, typical milanese food: Risotto alla milanese (typical Milanese risotto with saffron), la cotoletta alla milanese (a type of cutlet), cassoeula (a traditional meat casserole which was VERY heavy), involtini di verza (cabbage roll). The cassoeula is a very traditional winter dish, and you must drink a trong red wine to, well, survive. One favorite is Grumello della Valtellina, which means Grumello (wine) from an Italian region called Valtellina bordering Switzerland. The wine is quite strong, so it goes well with heavy dishes like cassoeula or the involtini di verza, or cabbage rolls.

밀라노 두오모 근처에는 그럴듯한 카페나 레스토랑이 많이 줄지어있지만 사실 가격만 비싸고 맛은 그저 그런 것이 사실. 조금 뒤로 가다보면 밀라노 센트럴이라는 레스토랑이 있는데 훨씬 맛있고 가격도 적당. 손목부터 어깨까지 문신을 한 언니가 너무 친절하고 예뻐서 더 마음에 들었을지도… 마지막날은 G의 친구들과 저녁을 먹었는데 134년된 안티카 트라토리아 엘라 페사 (헥헥)에 갔다. 가격이 좀 세긴했지만 제대로된 밀라노 음식을 먹고 싶다면 고고. 앤틱한 느낌을 그대로 유지했다고 하는데 그래서 그런지 뭔가 타임머신 탄 느낌. 청바지에 부츠 신은 우리들이 약간 어색할 정도. 밀라노인(?)이 추천한 밀라노 전통 음식은 리조또 (Risotto alla milanese), 양배추말이 (involtini di verza), 돼지고기찜 (cassoeula) 그리고 우리나라 돈까스처럼 생긴 커틀릿 (cotoletta alla milanese). 처음 가본 이탈리아 친구도 맛있다며 놀라워했다. 전체적으로 굉장히 헤비한 음식들이라 강한 와인도 추천: Grumello della Valtellina. (마지막 여행지라 그런가, 밀라노에서 굉장히 많이 먹어서 호텔로 돌아와 굶주린 늑대들처럼 먹었다며 약간 후회도 함.)

Places mentioned:

All photos by rachelsanghee

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